Backchurch Lane & adjacent streets - which became part of St John's parish
The
lane running south from Commercial Road to Cable Street became the
boundary between the parishes of St Mark Whitechapel and St John the
Evangelist-in-the-East Golding Street. It was densely populated, with a
mix of industrial and residential properties, with dangers to match. At
the end of this page are some contemporary views of the street.
Fires and Explosions
TERRIFIC BOILER EXPLOSION A fearful explosion occurred on the premises known as the Patent Saw Mills, situated in Back Church Lane, Commercial Road East, one of the most densely crowded districts of London. These premises were divided into several compartments, each fitted up with most costly machinery. A little to the left of these compartments stood the steam-boiler house, in which were deposited two boilers, one about 12-horse and the other between 8 and 9-horse power. The latter of these, which had been in use some time, was at work, and although it was observed to move sluggishly, no danger was apprehended; but between 10 and 11 o'clock in the forenoon a tremendous explosion occurred, which threw the whole neighbourhood into dismay. For the space of half a minute after the explosion happened, nothing but a dense mass of steam and dust could be seen, which ascended so high as to darken the neighbourhood in the immediate vicinity of the premises. The instant the steam and dust in some measure began to clear away, a shower of timber, bricks, and portions of heavy machinery fell. Large piles of wood were seen flying in every direction, which, as they fell upon the house-tops, either forced in the roofs or demolished the back or side walls. At the same time one of the boilers, weighing many tons, was lifted from its bearings, and thrown a long distance from its original position; the other was rent in pieces, and one part, weighing nearly two tons, was forced high into the air, and, after travelling a distance of 100 feet, fell into the back yard, striking in its descent the large premises used as counting-houses and offices, forcing in the windows, and partially destroying the front walls. The crash was tremendous, and at the same instant the school-house in Charles Street was partially blown down; two or three houses adjoining had their roofs and back fronts stove in, and an iron tank, weighing upwards of a ton, was driven by the force of the explosion some distance above the house-tops, and falling upon the roof of the mill, broke through and settled amongst the machinery. The devastation was carried far beyond the property. An aged man passing along the road was struck by a piece of iron, which broke both his legs, and he was obliged to be carried to the London Hospital. A boy passing through Church Lane had his arm fractured by the falling of a large piece of brickwork. Mrs. Young was buried in the ruins, and very severely scalded, and otherwise greatly injured. Mrs. Bailey, residing in the same street, who was looking out of the window at the time of the explosion, received so great a shock that she died on the following morning. |
A note on the
development of firefighting in London The first commercially-successful fire engine was patented by Richard Newsham in 1725, and many were made in different sizes (Buckingham Palace had once of the largest), and Newsham and Rags (his cousin) was established at 18 New Street, Cloth Fair, West Smithfield. They sold around the country and were even exported to the United States. Around 1750 he was bought out by John and Margaret Bristow (John was a churchwarden at St George-in-the-East in 1784), and production continued in Ratcliff Highway until 1831 - their story is told here. Before 1833 there was no co-ordinated system, and no trained firefighters. The 300 parish engines were under the control of often elderly beadles, and the insurance companies had their own equipment. Saving property rather than people was the priority. The Royal Society for the Protection of Life from Fire, founded in 1828, sought to address this by providing fire ladders in streets, and attending fires to give assistance to individuals at risk. The London Fire Brigade (originally the 'London Fire-engine Establishment') was created in 1833 by ten insurance companies working together, the Sun Fire Office taking the lead. The first Superintendent was James Braidwood (1800-61) [right], formerly of Edinburgh, where within weeks of his appointment at the age of 23 dealt with the Great Fire of Edinburgh. In his second year in London he faced the major fire at the Houses of Parliament. He lived 'over the shop' at Watling Street, and throughout his career saw through many detailed improvements to structures, apparatus, training and reporting of fires, detailed in his book Fire Prevention and Fire Extinction (Bell and Daldy 1866 - cover pictured right). This was published posthumously - he died attending the huge fire at Cotton's Wharf, Tooley Street in 1861. In 1866 the Metropolitan Board of Works assumed control of the fire service from the insurance companies, fulfilling one of his hopes; the Metropolitan Fire Brigade became the London Fire Brigade in 1904. Pictured left is its first motorised fire engine in 1902. |
Entrepreneurs
Backchurch Lane was also a place where entrepreneurs and men of science
lived and worked. Here are some examples.
In 1839 inventor of the electro-magnet William Sturgeon's Annals of Electricity, Magnetism and Chemistry included this letter from Henley:
A squalid place
Here
are three damning accounts of the area around Backchurch Lane from the
second half of the 19th
century - by which time the district church of St John the Evangelist-in-the-East Grove Street
had been established.
(1) The
first is from The
Christian's Penny
Magazine, and Friend of the People (Congregational Union 1865,
ed J
Campbell), and singles it out as a centre of vice.
(2) The second extract, from James Greenwood Unsentimental Journeys, or
By-ways of the modern Babylon (Ward & Lock 1867) comments on
a particular local trade:
This
universal fish-frying is the key to another mystery common to the
neighbourhood. In every 'general shop', in every rag and bone shop, in
the high street, and in the hundred courts and filthy alleys that worm
in and out of it, may be seen solid slabs of a tallowy-looking
substance, and marked with a figure 6, 7, or 8, denoting that for as
many pence a pound weight of the suspicious-looking slab may be
obtained. It is bought in considerable quantities by the fish-eaters
for frying purposes, and is by them supposed to be simply and purely
the fat dripping of roast and baked meats, supplied to these shops by
cooks, whose perquisite it is. This, however is a delusion. The
villainous compound is manufactured. There is a 'dripping-maker' near
Seabright-street, Bethnal-green, and another in Backchurch-lane,
Whitechapel, both flourishing men, and the owners of many carts and
sleek cattle. Mutton suet and boiled rice are the chief ingredients
used in the manufacture of the slabs, the gravy of bullocks' kidneys
being stirred into the mess when it is half cold, giving to the whole a
mottled and natural appearance... |
(3) Finally is an article 'The Haunts of the East End Anarchist' from the Evening Standard
of
2 October 1894. It begins with a description of Backchurch Lane and the
small streets to the east of it, before turning to a lurid and
thoroughly racist account of the activities of the radical Jewish
groups that were meeting in the area. See below for pictures of the streets mentioned.
Just beyond the Proof-house of the Gunmakers' Company near the Whitechapel end of the Commercial Road, begins a series of narrow streets running at right angles to the main thoroughfare, and cutting Fairclough Street at the further extremity, where the Tilbury and Southend Railway passes through the district [see below]. More or less alike in appearance, these byways, for they are no more, consist entirely of small two-storeyed tenements with an occasional stable or cow-shed to break the monotony, and a sprinkling of little shops devoted to coal and dried fish, stale fruit and potatoes, pickled cucumbers and salt herrings, shrivelled sausages and sour brown bread. There is Backchurch Lane, where the Irish resident still holds his own against the incoming Russo-Jewish settler, and Berner [now Henriques] Street, where the window bills, written in Hebrew characters. inform you that there are 'loshing' or a 'bek-rum' (back room) to let, and thus proclaim the nationality of its denizens. There is Batty Street wholly given over to the foreign tailors, clickers and 'machiners'; Christian Street, long since an appanage of East End Jewry, and Grove [now Golding] Street, where the low-pitched tenements are so far below the pavement level that the passer-by can comfortably shake hands with the residents off the top floor through the bedroom windows. And
intersecting all these are a number of courts, alleys, and passages, so
dark and narrow, so dirty and malodorous, that the purlieus of Seven
Dials and the backways of Clare Market may be called light and airy in
comparison with them. Some are blind, others lead through to the
adjoining thoroughfare. Some branch off to right and left, others
conduct one to open spaces forming irregular quadrangles lined with
houses below the street level, so small and snug that the occupier
standing in his front parlour can open the door, stir the fire, reach
the dustbin outside, or make the bed inside without stirring from the
spot. Courts and alleys, streets and yards, all are densely packed, in
many cases even to the cellars below lighted by small gratings in the
pavement. And the whole district, stretching from Backchurch Lane on
one side to Morgan Street on the other, is the resort and principal
abiding-place of the East End Anarchists. In the side streets and
alleys hereabouts the majority of them live and loaf; within a stone's
throw are their favourites haunts, the coffee-shops they patronise, and
the private gambling-clubs where many spend their evenings, and close
by is their printing press, their temporary club and meeting house, and
even the tavern where their Friday evening discussions take place. If
I dig in the mines of the frozen north,
I'll dig with a will: the ore I bring forth May yet make a knife - a knife for the throat of the Tsar. If I toil in the south, I'll plough and sow Good honest hemp; who knows, I may grow A rope - a rope for the neck of the Tsar. Sarah
Bernhardt might envy the fire and verve with which this recitation is
given by one of the Jewesses, and there can be no possible mistake
about the sentiments of the speaker and her auditory, whatever there
may be about the merits of the verses. And the same fiery stuff, or
fiery stuff of the same description, is being spouted about the same
time at half a dozen other branches of the Anarchist League in the
district between Backchurch Lane and the New Road, that runs up to
Whitechapel. Everything is turned to account, tool for the purposes of
its mischievous propaganda. Why, before the meeting is closed one
member produces and sings an Anarchist version of 'After the Ball',
with a finely-buttered moral drawn from the contrast between the
wealthy dancers inside and the shivering poor outside, winding up with
an Anglo-Yiddish chorus in which all join. |
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